FINAL PROJECT - Street Trends & High Fashion

Zoot Suits:
German Valdez “Tin Tan” was a famous actor, singer and comedian in Mexico in the 40’s and 50’s. He used to wear the “Pachuco style” (Zoot suits) and frequently employed “pachuco slangs” in his movies, making the Mexican American “pachuco” language famous in Mexico.
The word “pachuco” comes from the Nahuatl dialect: Pachoacan; this word means, “Place where is governed”, therefore the pachuco gang used to governed some places where people can respect them.
“Pachuco” or “Zoot Suiters” is the name of the stereotype that defines a young Mexican American (Chicano) that emerged in the mid 20’s wearing flashy clothes, which consisted of a suit with pants too loose, but tight around the waist and ankles, a long jacket with wide lapels and broad shoulders and padded.
Source: Wikipedia

In these images: Gianfranco Ferre Fall 2008 RTW and Vivienne Tam Spring 2009 RTW we can see some of the “Zoot suits” elements, like loose pants and long jackets but the thing that I most like is that these suits are for women, I am a huge Zoot suit fan, so I definitely would like to use one.






Beatniks:
“Beatnik” is a term used in 1958 by the American journalist Herb Caen with the purpose of parody and refers in a very derogative way to the “Beat Generation”, after the publication of “On the Road” a novel motion-manifesto written by Jack Kerouac.
The term applied to a stereotype youth distinguishable by the manner of dress and grooming that was fashionable, and related to a tendency to laziness, unrestraint sex, violence, vandalism and gangs of criminals.
The trend among men was using the triangle beard, beret, horizontal striped shirt, black glasses, high neck sweaters, roll their own cigarettes and playing the bongos.
The trend for women was wearing mesh black tights or trousers tight to the middle leg, black glasses, shirt knotted at the chest or large sweaters, shoes without heels or barefoot and long hair, no arrangements or decorations in displays of rebellion against the standards of the middle class, which established that women should try to keep their hair permanently fixed.
Source: Wikipedia

The stripes, dark colors and a hat of Boy by Band of Outsiders Fall 2009 RTW reminds me of the “Beatniks style” this outfit has a rebel mood like this trend back in the 60’s






Teddy Boys:
Is a British subculture started in London in the 50’s and is recognized by young men and women wearing clothes inspired by the Edwardian period styles introduced after WWII.
Teddy Boy clothing consisted of: long drape jackets, usually in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collar and pocket flaps; high-waisted "drainpipe" trousers, often showing brightly coloured socks. Favoured footwear were chunky brogues, large crepe-soled shoes, often suede (known as brothel creepers) and high-necked loose collar on a white shirt. Preferred hairstyles included long, strongly-moulded greased-up hair with a quiff at the front and the side hair combed back to form a Duck's Arse at the rear of the head. Another hairstyle was the Boston, in which the hair was greased straight back and cut square across at the nape. (Wikipedia)
Teddy girls adopted a style similar to Teddy Boys; they wore items such as drape jackets, hobble skirts, long plaits, straw boater hats, cameo brooches, espadrilles and coolie hats. Later they adopted the American fashions of toreador pants, voluminous circle skirts, and hair in ponytails. (Wikipedia)
These old pictures were taken by Ken Russell in 1955 in London’s East End, from a series: “The last of the Teddy Girsl”.
Source: Wikipedia


Armand Basi One Fall 2009 RTW and and Topshop Unique Spring 2009 RTW have “Teddy Boys” elements employed in a different way. Topshop Unique used the ong jacket with velvet collar in a very classic way, while Armand Basi One used these elements in a more rebel and futuristic way, employing a shinny fabric for the pants and a kind of trench coat with bigger laps than conventional.









Mods:
The mod movement (of the English-modernism) was a musical and cultural movement based on fashion and music that developed in London, United Kingdom in the late 1950s and reached its culmination during the first half of the 1960’s. The followers of this current were known as “Mods”, and were located mainly in southern England, but were numerous in some northern cities (like Manchester or Liverpool). The most important aspects are music, fashion and scooters.
Tailored shirts, tailored polos, and turtleneck or round neck was the trend of the “Mods”. They wear Shirts and shirt-waisted 1960s style from brands like Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Merc, John Smedley, Penguin, Gabicci, Roberto Carlo, and tailor-made.
Source: Wikipedia

I used a Perry Ellis Fall 2004 RTW Collection to show the “Mods” trend because even though this is not a recent collection I really like the way Perry Ellis transmits an English “Mod” mood by using tailored skirts and jackets.









Hippies:
This is a cultural movement born in the United States in the 60’s. The word “Hippie” derives from “hipster” used to describe the pre-beatnik subculture. They used to listen anti-folk and psychedelic rock, embraced the sexual revolution and believed in free love.
The trend between hippies was brightly colored clothing or faded colors, very colorful floral shirts, long skirts, trousers and hoods. They were also based on non-Western styles of clothing, as clothing Native American (cherokee) of India or Africa, and adopted the flower as symbols or patterns of American Indians. Many of the hippies made their own clothing, in protest at the “consumer culture”.
Source: Wikipedia

Bluemarine Fall 2008 RTW and Etro Fall 2009 RTW are really inspired in the “Hippie” trend, we can clearly see it on the pattern and shape of the dress and in the bell pants, vest and accessories that both are employing.









Disco:
“Disco” is a genre of dance music derived from the Rhythm & Blues, which blends elements of earlier genres such as funk and soul, with touches of Latin in many cases, which became popular in dance halls (clubs) in the middle of 70’s.
The trend in the 70’s was stretchy fabrics like spandex or lycra, bold patterns with geometric designs, Widely flared pant legs, wide lapels and bright, flashy and dramatics colors.
Source: Wikipedia

The geometric pattern of this L.A.M.B. Spring 2008 RTW dress and the Louis Vuitton 2009 Resort jumpsuit in a bright fuccia color take us back to the “Disco” era.









Punk:
The “Punk movement” is the cultural and social activity that surrounds punk rock music like The Ramones or Sex Pistols. This subculture was originated between London and New York in the mid 70s.
Punk philosophy can be summed up in “Do it yourself, do it your way”. Therefore there is no real “fashion” in this subculture because it disregards the fashion and media manipulation.
But the main characteristics of this subculture way of dress was deliberately offensive T-shirts which featured an inverted crucifix and a Nazi Swastika, patches, leather jackets and customized blazers, military boots, Brothel creepers, Chuck Taylor All-Stars, Tapered jeans, tight leather pants, pants with leopard patterns, and bondage trousers. Hair was often dyed bright unnatural colors. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as later punk hairstyles, such as liberty spikes or the Mohawk hairstyle.
Source: Wikipedia

Charles Anastase Fall 2009 RTW reflects a “Punk” scene by using leather jackets, tight jeans, combat boots and deconstructed elements.









Hip Hop:
Hip hop” is a cultural and artistic movement that arose in the United States in the late 1960s in Latin American and African American communities of New York neighborhoods like the Bronx, Queens and Brooklyn. From the beginning stood out features demonstrations of the origins of “hip hop”, for example, the music (funk, rap, blues, DJing), dance (hustle, uprocking, lindy hop, popping, locking) and paint (aerosol, bombing, murals, political graffiti).
The trend for hip hopers In the early 1980s was established by sportswear and fashion brands, such as Le Coq Sportif, Kangol, Adidas and Nike. Later the baseball caps and bright, often neon-colored, clothing was popularized.
Source: Wikipedia

The bling bling jewelry and relax attitude of this Dsquared2 Spring 2009 Menswear Collection definitely is influenced by street art, graffiti and funk elements that makes of “Hip Hop” culture a trend unique.









Psychobilly:
This trend comes from rock music that mixes elements of punk rock, rockabilly, and other genres. Psychobilly is often characterized by lyrical references to science fiction, horror and exploitation films, violence, lurid sexuality, and other topics generally considered taboo, though often presented in a comedic or tongue-in-cheek fashion. Psychobilly gained underground popularity in Europe beginning in the early 1980s, but remained largely unknown in the United States until the late 1990s. Since then the success of several notable psychobilly bands has led to its mainstream popularity and attracted international attention to the genre.
Psychobilly borrow styles from 1950s rockabilly and rock and roll music, as well as 1970s punk fashions. Other aesthetic influences include the scooterboy and skinhead subcultures. Men often wear brothel creepers or Dr. Martens boots and shave their heads into high wedge-shaped pompadours or quiffs, military-style crops, or mohawks. The Sharks song "Take a Razor to Your Head" articulated the early psychobilly scene's code of dress, which was a reaction to the earlier British Teddy Boy movement. Women of the psychobilly subculture frequently model their fashions after B-grade horror films and hot rod culture.
Source: Wikipedia

I didn’t find any collection really influenced by “Psychobilly” in the catwalk, the closest collection to this trend is the Fall 2002 Betsey Johnson RTW… It has some elements like feminine dresses and flashy elements.. but it doesn’t exactly feels like psychobilly.









Ska:
Is a music genre that originated in Jamaica in the late 1950s, and was the precursor to rocksteady and reggae. Ska combined elements of Caribbean mento and calypso with American jazz and rhythm and blues. It is characterized by a walking bass line accented with rhythms on the offbeat.
In the early 1960s, ska was the dominant music genre of Jamaica and was popular with British “mods. Later it became popular with many skinheads. Music historians typically divide the history of ska into three periods: the original Jamaican scene of the 1960s (First Wave), the English 2 Tone ska revival of the late 1970s (Second Wave) and the third wave ska movement, which started in the 1980s (Third Wave). (Wikipedia)
Ska fashion style in 1950s, was tailored suits and jackets, suspenders, black sunglasses and hats all in black and white colors, the contrast of these colors refers to the 2 Tone ska revival, these colors represent the union of the races, because after the independence of Jamaica, a lot of people of color migrated to England.
Source: Wikipedia

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009 RTW collection is based in black and white colors, the first time I saw it reminded my of ska. Also L.A.M.B. Spring 2008 RTW is very influenced by ska and reggae, Gwen Steffani the leader of the ska band No Doubt definitely reflects her music roots in the runway.